At Hanover Inlet we caught up with Nomad Davina again then Whiskers and Exhale arrived the next day – 4 cats in the bay. Here the tide changes were up to 8 metres and we followed the rising tide into the back creeks for some fishing, calmly floating along in the dinghy at 2 knots upstream. 

The mangrove trees here are enormous with long roots and well adapted to the huge tides. Despite the lack of fish for dinner the bird life was wonderful: variegated fairy-wrens, sandstone shrike-thrush, friarbirds, azure kingfisher and reef egrets, with the usual raptors: sea-eales, ospreys and brahminy kites scaring off a pair of beach stone-curlews.

Samson Inlet and Gorge was even busier. Here we met Slow Motion, who had sailed from Tassie up the west coast, and Arrow, on their fourth trip around the Kimberley. They were able to lead us on the trek to the upper falls and rock pools, through long grass over rocks and creek beds. I doubt we would have found the track alone. 

mauve mulla-mullas lining the creek bed

Hall Point, near Kid Island was a lovely overnight stop with a walk on a sandy beach with a rocky lagoon behind the sand dune.  Then we finally saw some humpback whales as we sailed towards Montgomerey Reef.  This reef, around a few small islands, is enormous stretching for 18 miles (nm) in all directions.

WA humpback and calf