July – August 2020: Hervey Bay to Port Clinton to The Percy Isles

The forecast for our sail to Bundaberg hardly resembled the conditions at sea.  Up to 38 knots SW hammered us for most of the trip, but we made into the safety of the Burnett River to rest overnight.

A brief stop at Cape Capricorn, then on to Svendson’s Beach at Great Keppel Island, where we met old and new friends: Kathamaria, Bona Fide, Skellum, Sea Legges, Sofia and Double Barrel.  Sundowners on the beach again, at last and finally saw 2 whales breaching off the eastern beach.

With storms and strong winds forecast we tucked in to Port Clinton as there was no military action at present.  We were surprised to see Fisheries launch their big rib at the ramp, but they came over for a chat and then were going out to check the Green Zones for illegal fishing.  Port Clinton is a very pretty area with great bird life and coastal heaths.

Once the weather cleared we made a stopover in Pearl Bay followed by friends on Jigsaw and Koza.  Next morning brought an unusually calm entrance into Island Head Creek, where we stayed for a week, catching up with Cat Magic and enjoying fishing and sewing.  When more strong SE winds were forecast we moved to a more sheltered area before we could set off for the Percy Isles.  Island Head Creek has a spectacular mixture of wildflowers, rugged cliffs, mangroves, wide sandy beaches and huge sandspits at low tides.

 

After an early morning start we had a great sail downwind with the current to Middle Percy, and opted to anchor in West Bay, even though it can be quite rolly on change of tide.

Our old embroidered Heatwave sign still hangs in the A-frame, aka The Percy Island Yacht Club on the beach.  At last a perfect warm, sunny day so we kayaked in to the beach and hiked over to Rescue Bay.  Two big hills to traverse through forest depleted by too many feral goats that are still pruning all the vegetation to death, but boronias were out in flower and a few birds were calling.

By the time we paddled back to the boat a pod of whales had cruised in and were lolling around Pine Islet.  By evening there were 19 boats anchored in West Bay so we opted out of sundowners for social distance purposes.

 

The old home town looks the same ... - except for more people, more traffic, more boats on the harbour.  It’s been 25 years since we lived here and it’s nice to be able to see the harbour from our own boat.  So different from the water, it can be disorientating at times.

During the week it’s fairly quiet on the water, but on weekends it’s madness!  A few boats keep to the speed limits, but most seem to be in a tearing hurry, powering though the little sailing skiffs and kayaks without even seeing them.

On Middle Harbour the 12 foot skiffs that Toni used to sail with her Dad, still look the same, though they need more support vessels to help them with the traffic.

With strong southerlies predicted, we headed up to Sugarloaf Bay, under the Spit Bridge.  Opening bridges never seem wide enough until you are through to the other side.

Sydney is also a bit different in that very few people wave or say g’day, unlike Lake Macquarie where it’s hard to walk down the street without someone having a yarn.

The old Quarantine Station is looking great, now with a restaurant and accommodation.  We took the Ghost Tour many years ago and it was brilliant.  The buildings have all been well maintained, surrounding bush full of bird calls, and there are public moorings in the bay, though you do get some wake from the Manly ferries and Fastcats.

Rain had settled in by the time we sailed up the harbour to the famous Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge, but we still sailed under the bridge, after dodging lots of ferries in all directions.

 

Before Anzac Bridge we had to pass the old 1903 Glebe Island Bridge (more memories), which is permanently open now, the timber footings all slowly collapsing into the harbour.

Meanwhile, here in Rozelle Bay the neighbours are getting bigger...

Water, Water, Everywhere ...

Rain through the night and most of the morning has the waterfalls roaring at Hallett's Beach on the Hawkesbury.

The sandstone escarpments are looking spectacular, despite the dull skies.

One very brave grass tree (xanthorea) is trying his luck growing on a large rock.  Not sure how long he will last!

Pittwater: The Basin Walk

The walk begins at the campsite and goes straight up!  Although only a 6 km round trip, it starts with a very steep long climb to the ridge top, where there are Aboriginal Etchings in the Hawkesbury sandstone.

Orange angophora trunks contrasted with the scribbly gums and sandstone cliffs.

angophora

Hawkesbury sandstone 

scribbly gum

Along the track so many plants are now flowering and the birds are very happy about that!

banksia

epacris

gompholobium

grevillea

lambertia

Honeyeaters, wattlebirds and lorikeets were enjoying the nectar, while red-tailed black cockatoos were feasting on casuarina nuts.

red-tailed black cockatoos

The Beautiful Hawkesbury

From our 9 am Swansea Bridge crossing to the open sea it was relatively calm through the bar.  Outside the swell was easterly 1 metre, skies were grey, but only light drizzle along the way, not the rain we expected.  Favourable winds gave us a good sail down the coast and into Broken Bay.  

There the water was brown, skies were still grey and the harbour was awash with flotsam after the storms: logs, branches, tress, fence posts and of all sorts of plastic debris:  bait bags, bottles, drums, buckets, styrofoam, even coffee cups!

Dodging the logs, we sailed into Refuge Bay, which has more moorings than we’ve seen anywhere!  The yacht clubs all have moorings for members and there are many courtesy and National Parks moorings to choose from.  We chose one near the waterfall, which was running.  In fact, after the torrential rains, there are waterfalls running all around the cliffs.  

There’s a war memorial plaque near the falls to honour Z-Unit, the unit that was also based at Magnetic Island Fort.

After a yummy lunch at Cottage Point Kiosk, of Aussie Black Mussels in a spicy sauce with fresh herbs and crusty bread, we motored around to Stingray Bay in Smith’s Creek, which was serene and perfect for kayaking.  

The earthy colours of the Sydney Sandstone cliffs and caves around the river are beautiful in the sunlight.  We may be tempted to stay another week! 

Well, it was serene until two houseboats of French students arrived, one took the mooring and the other tried to anchor.  About sunset the anchored houseboat drifted by, heading for the rocks, as they were all on the other houseboat enjoying sundowners.  We called out and they quickly dinghied over to take control, then tried to re-anchor in the same spot.  Skipper Pete to the rescue, as we helped them to reset their anchor in the bay.

Great Walks around Lake Macquarie

At Green Point there is a wonderful walking track from Belmont to Eleebana along the foreshore.  It's possible to see Powerful Owls here.   Other tracks lead up to the lookout. 

 Around at Killaben Bay the Foreshore Walking Track is a bit hard to find.  There is a small space for dinghies under the casuarinas just past the last house (western end).  If you walk across the park you will find the start of the track, which winds through shady littoral forest along the creek and up to the Killaben Fire Trail Loop.

The walk is on a Landcare Site

Start of the track

Killaben Bay and Styles Point anchorage

Lots of good birdwatching here too!