Orpheous Island

Again, the wind is nothing like the forecast, so we awoke early to a lumpy WSW 10 knots.  Peter has done much of the sailing while Toni was laid up with 2 days of flu-like fever, aches and pains along with a whacking toothache... we only seem to get sick when we visit cities!

The walk to the top is really a scramble over sandstone rocks, more suited to walking boots than old worn out boat shoes, but passes through lovely tropical savannah open forest.  Remnants of the old oyster farmer’s camp can still be seen, while orange-footed scrub-fowls rummage in the leaf litter and call their discordant song (which only another scrub-fowl could enjoy!).

The rocky track is marked spasmodically with pink tape and a few creative cairns made by bushwalkers, no doubt, but it’s easy to lose your way.  

From the top there are full views to the east and west with Lucinda Sugar Mill steam stack easily seen, despite all the bushfire smoke along the mainland.

Whale Encounter off Townsville

We never tire of seeing humpback whales, but this large mammal, just off Magnetic Island, didn’t seem to be moving or breathing. 

As we cut the motors and watched, she eventually let out a breath and then a smaller head appeared, then a smaller fin too.  

She appeared to be suckling a very young calf, but then Horror!!  3 jet skis were powering towards her and we couldn’t get their attention!  

They must have noticed just in time that we and another fishing boat were drifting, so they stopped to watch too...  Phew!

Having A Whale of a Time...

At Gloucester Passage we saw our first whale of the season, near Little Jonah Bay, which was nicely followed by Sundowners on the beach with great friends: Charm, Free Spirit, Emma Jane, Kathamaria.

A shocking sail next morning for our first visit to Queen’s Beach at Bowen, the wind was all over the place and nothing like the forecast, but we arrived in time for the Sunday markets – lots of lovely Bowen tomatoes and veggies!

Leaving Bowen in thick fog, we were glad of the radar, just in case all the local fishing boats were out at the famous “Mackerral Patch”.  Light winds were all over the place again, so it was another tricky sail to Cape Upstart.  

At the massive Upstart headland the wind finally picked up and by the time we reached The Bun, a funny white rock on the corner, we were sailing at 8 knots into the bay. 

Early start the next morning, catching the first light at 6 am, and again the forecast of light winds had us doing 8 knots!  Plenty of whales and dolphins to watch during our long day sail to Magnetic Island.

First Spanish Mackerral of the year!

Peter is pretty chuffed as he hauls in a 1.1m Spanish! 

More News on Sth Molle Island!

As we anchored back at South Molle the rain came, and came, and came... and out of the mist a huge MV with the flag of the Chinese Investment Company flying on the bow.  The crew were dressed in crisp uniforms and the Chinese delegates in suits.  A landing barge ferried them ashore to inspect the wrecked resort.  In a few hours they were ferried back and the MV motored away.  This could be a promising sign for the development!

A different dawn chorus on SMI:  orange-footed scrub fowl, pheasant coucal, torresian crow and sulphur-crested cockatoo – not so melodious together!

South Molle Island Walks

Just wonderful walks on South Molle, well maintained by National Parks – well, except for the weeds - but that would take a million volunteers! – with quite a steep climb to Balancing Rock, but worth it for the views to Shute Harbour and the mainland.  

It’s ironic that NP have to mention on their signs to take your rubbish with you, derr, but the resort owners thought it ok to leave rubbish strewn all over their beautiful beach, even the inevitable old glass Coke bottle. Despite that, the corals here have much more colour, with large purple and pink patches visible from the dinghy among the white and tan bommies.

The Eastern side of the island has totally different vegetation, as usual in the Whitsunday islands, with windswept grassland, very few trees and billions of grasstrees (xanthorea) looking like a battalion of lances off to battle; although there are always individuals, with strange curly shapes, just to buck the trend.

From the lookout at Spion Kop, the volcanic rock headland, you can see Dent and Hamilton Islands and the wild eddies that we sailed past on one side, with yet another derelict Daydream Island on the Western side. 

Goldsmith and Shaw Islands

Such a serene time spent at Goldsmith, with perfect weather, glassy seas, kayaking around all the beaches, then celebrating Mr Bojangles 6th birthday with Olaf and Annie on Kathamaria II.  It was hard to leave, but the winds arrived and we sailed off to Shaw Island, another top spot. 

fish galore!

glassy seas

loaf of the day!

Speaking of spots, “Spot On”, power cat and our neighbour from Tin Can Bay Marina, arrived and anchored next to us.  After Peter caught a nice queenie, his fastest troll ever – 5 minutes! - Stephanie put us on to making numas or pickled fish.  

Luckily we had all the key ingredients, which we also use for most of our recipes: chilli, garlic, ginger and onion.  It was fabulous!

After riding out the strong SE winds for a few days we sailed off to South Molle Island just as Tony Longhurst’s “Cato” was sailing in to Shaw.  What a stunning cat!

saddle tail snapper